The Start
There are always lots of things to do, from repairs, replacements to basic cleaning & bow is there a lot of that!
I started with some of those in the fall of 2017 and they included (note that most of the work I'm doing myself):
1. Head systems & compartment overhaul
a. Everything from floor and wall painting to complete removal of holding tank, head and all hoses.... replaced with an "Air Head" Composting Toilet.
2. Replace seven (7) chainplates - never having been inspected in 51 years.... Only bow not to be replaced. Learned it was A LOT cheaper to do myself!
3. Paint Boom, Spreaders & Mast fixing any major defects along the way.
4. Paint all cabin horizontal surfaces (bunk & shelf) and removing any drawer liner paper used previously on those surfaces.
5. Paint all locker areas, none of which have had surface treatment in 51 years. Will finish over time - lots of surface cleaning needed.
6. Address Yanmar starting issues (lugging) that were in part the result of being operated at 2000rpm or below for the engines 750 hr (22 year) life.
7. Replaced exterior and interior lights with LEDs - starting with 35W Spreader Lights!
8. Mast Halyard Sheaves - binding.... Halyards were too large!.
9. Anchor - Replaced CQR with a ROCHNA! CQR is now a lawn ornament :).
General specifics follow for some of these, as well as follow on projects.
There are always lots of things to do, from repairs, replacements to basic cleaning & bow is there a lot of that!
I started with some of those in the fall of 2017 and they included (note that most of the work I'm doing myself):
1. Head systems & compartment overhaul
a. Everything from floor and wall painting to complete removal of holding tank, head and all hoses.... replaced with an "Air Head" Composting Toilet.
2. Replace seven (7) chainplates - never having been inspected in 51 years.... Only bow not to be replaced. Learned it was A LOT cheaper to do myself!
3. Paint Boom, Spreaders & Mast fixing any major defects along the way.
4. Paint all cabin horizontal surfaces (bunk & shelf) and removing any drawer liner paper used previously on those surfaces.
5. Paint all locker areas, none of which have had surface treatment in 51 years. Will finish over time - lots of surface cleaning needed.
6. Address Yanmar starting issues (lugging) that were in part the result of being operated at 2000rpm or below for the engines 750 hr (22 year) life.
7. Replaced exterior and interior lights with LEDs - starting with 35W Spreader Lights!
8. Mast Halyard Sheaves - binding.... Halyards were too large!.
9. Anchor - Replaced CQR with a ROCHNA! CQR is now a lawn ornament :).
General specifics follow for some of these, as well as follow on projects.
Cockpit Teak Floor - Removed it! Sooo much safer too.
The cockpit of the boat had a substantial two piece floor over what had been a re-awlgripped surface.
a. Both aft corner drains (total of 4) were blocked by the floor and trapped debris resulted in partially plugged drain hoses and grit degrading the nonskid awlgripped surface. Asymmetrical Spinnaker - Found "Used"
Cabin Heater - Wallas 30GBWallas 30GB Diesel Heater in the starboard cockpit locker with exhaust to the starboard quarter of the hull. Controls are above the reefer locker and vents for heat - 1st above starboard bunk and 2nd next to ladder. Air intake is from the deck vent and from the aft locker. Mounted to the board shown that is mounted to the aft bulkhead and a hull fixed shim. Diesel fuel is from a small plastic tank in the lowest locker below the stove - against the hull.
Boom Support & Vang - BoomkickerBoomkicker 1500 with vang. The vang elements were purchased as separate elements from Defender (Lewmar) and was much cheaper than as a built up kit. No topping lift needed anymore - but have one anyway just in case needed.
Autopilot - PelagicPelagic Autopilot with controller. The arm and motor unit sit on the starboard locker hatch and all electronics are located in the starboard locker aft and the controls on the starboard bulkhead in the cockpit. The locker unit is shown in to the right of the heater in the heater photos above.
Cabin Bunks - Clean & Paint -
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Mast Halyard Sheaves -The mast sheaves (unit) for halyards on a Luders 33 vary in design, but the ones on CROW (Hull #10) look like the following.
After removing the “unit” from the mast (3 Aluminum plates, 2 sheaves and 6 plastic “washers”) my seizing issue was evident. Primary causes (3): 1. Rope halyard oversized! The sheaves comfortably carry either the original wire halyard or a rope halyard no larger than 3/8” – which is capable of an approx. 4,900lb. load. The installed 7/16” line was overkill and caused too much friction. 2. The masthead flag staff was added when the sheave unit was in with screws too long that pressed against the outer aluminum piece potentially adding to the binding issue. 3. The "Washers" were thin and made of plastic but I made larger and thinner with Delrin. It works like a dream now! Head Corner Bracket - Metal in Head that was VERY corroded.
The Luders 33 has a deck stepped mast - something I've experienced before on my Nor'sea 27, but this arrangement was slightly different. In this design the mast compression "post" is the center head wall - very substantial plywood panel approx. 2" thick and the bracket fastening screws are 1 3/4" long.
Below the floor are wood "beams" that sit on the hull. They look OK but will cleaned up and epoxy/paint. The aft wall of the head is somewhat thinner and serves to help hold the main supporting wall in place and connects to the port side of the boat. To hold the two corners together is the "Bracket." It was exposed to the head "splash," shower water (when used) and mast leakage if not sealed properly - including salt laden water. The paint used on the new aluminum piece is... Rustoleum. The HEAD - AirHead Composting Toilet!
Chainplate Replacements -
The Lowers, Uppers & Backstay are all now replaced after 53 years! None had been inspected in all that time and I found one "slightly cracked and another with a bold corroded and sheared. The replacements for the lowers are the same as the old but without the simple welded bracket. The uppers use a new larger plate design that is to use a "Spartan" deck fitting with 4 Bolts and the old hole in the deck filled. Would like to do the same to all the lowers but will wait for awhile. The backstay uses a much larger bracket mounted to the stern knee structure and keeps the old chainplate in place but it is cut off under the deck. Again it used the "Spartan" deck fitting (seen for the backstay). No more deck penetration for leaks. Photos show the old bolts that were exposed and all are left in place. New bolts are athwartship. Another shows the initial location for the new fitting - keeping the old in place - but opted to remove it completely and move the new over the old location. ALL chainplates are now inspectable and more readily removable - except for the stem head which I'll not touch.
Spreader Lights - LED Replacement
Next time a smaller fixed light w/no direction adjustment. Genny moves them! Main Hatch Door Panel -
New one panel made of Starboard |