The Start
There are always lots of things to do, including basic cleaning, and I started in the fall of 2017 when I bought the boat.
Replacing the anchor was first:
1. Anchor - Replaced CQR with a ROCHNA!
2. Head systems & compartment - everything from floor varnish, wall painting, to complete removal of holding tank, head and all hoses. Replaced with an "Air Head" Composting Toilet.
3. Replace seven (7) chainplates - never having been inspected.
4. Paint Boom, Spreaders & Mast - fixing any major defects along the way.
5. Paint all cabin horizontal surfaces (bunk & shelf) - removing any drawer liner paper used previously on those surfaces.
6. Start Painting all locker areas - none had prior surface treatment
7. Address Yanmar starting issues - (lugging) partly the result of being operated at low (2000 or below) rpm for 750hrs/22 year life
8. Replaced exterior and interior lights with LEDs
9. Mast Halyard Sheaves - binding.... Halyards were too large!.
10. And more!.... That was 2017 & 2018
See Projects below
There are always lots of things to do, including basic cleaning, and I started in the fall of 2017 when I bought the boat.
Replacing the anchor was first:
1. Anchor - Replaced CQR with a ROCHNA!
2. Head systems & compartment - everything from floor varnish, wall painting, to complete removal of holding tank, head and all hoses. Replaced with an "Air Head" Composting Toilet.
3. Replace seven (7) chainplates - never having been inspected.
4. Paint Boom, Spreaders & Mast - fixing any major defects along the way.
5. Paint all cabin horizontal surfaces (bunk & shelf) - removing any drawer liner paper used previously on those surfaces.
6. Start Painting all locker areas - none had prior surface treatment
7. Address Yanmar starting issues - (lugging) partly the result of being operated at low (2000 or below) rpm for 750hrs/22 year life
8. Replaced exterior and interior lights with LEDs
9. Mast Halyard Sheaves - binding.... Halyards were too large!.
10. And more!.... That was 2017 & 2018
See Projects below
Cockpit Teak Grating - Removed it! Sooo much safer too.
The cockpit of the boat had a substantial two piece floor over what had been a re-awlgripped surface. Both aft corner drains (total of 4) were blocked by the floor and trapped debris, resulted in partially plugged drain hoses and grit degrading the nonskid awlgripped surface.
Asymmetrical Spinnaker - Found "Used"
& retractable Gennaker Boom - installed & ready Cabin Heater - Wallas 30GBWallas 30GB Diesel Heater in the starboard cockpit locker with exhaust to the starboard quarter of the hull. Controls are above the reefer locker and vents for heat - 1st above starboard bunk and 2nd next to ladder. Air intake is from the deck vent and from the aft locker. Mounted to the board shown that is mounted to the aft bulkhead and a hull fixed shim. Diesel fuel is from a small plastic tank in the lowest locker below the stove - against the hull.
Boom Support & Vang - BoomkickerBoomkicker 1500 with vang. The vang elements were purchased as separate elements from Defender (Lewmar) and was much cheaper than as a built up kit. No topping lift needed anymore - but have one anyway just in case needed.
Autopilot - PelagicPelagic Autopilot with controller. The arm and motor unit sit on the starboard locker hatch and all electronics are located in the starboard locker aft and the controls on the starboard bulkhead in the cockpit. The locker unit is shown in to the right of the heater in the heater photos above.
Cabin Bunks - Clean & Paint
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Mast Halyard Sheaves -The mast sheaves (unit) for halyards on a Luders 33 vary in design, but the ones on CROW (Hull #10) look like the following.
After removing the “unit” from the mast (3 Aluminum plates, 2 sheaves and 6 plastic “washers”) my seizing issue was evident. Primary causes (3): 1. Rope halyard oversized! The sheaves comfortably carry either the original wire halyard or a rope halyard no larger than 3/8” – which is capable of an approx. 4,900lb. load. The installed 7/16” line was overkill and caused too much friction. 2. The masthead flag staff was added when the sheave unit was in with screws too long that pressed against the outer aluminum piece potentially adding to the binding issue. 3. The "Washers" were thin and made of plastic but I made larger and thinner with Delrin. It works like a dream now! Head Corner Bracket - Metal in Head that was VERY corroded.
The Luders 33 has a deck stepped mast - something I've experienced before on my Nor'sea 27, but this arrangement was slightly different. In this design the mast compression "post" is the center head wall - very substantial plywood panel approx. 2" thick and the bracket fastening screws are 1 3/4" long.
Below the floor are wood "beams" that sit on the hull. They look OK but will cleaned up and epoxy/paint. The aft wall of the head is somewhat thinner and serves to help hold the main supporting wall in place and connects to the port side of the boat. To hold the two corners together is the "Bracket." It was exposed to the head "splash," shower water (when used) and mast leakage if not sealed properly - including salt laden water. The paint used on the new aluminum piece is... Rustoleum. Can see the bracket installed in the AirHead Photos below. The HEAD - AirHead Composting Toilet!
ALL of the original plumbing, holding tank and toilet were removed! Vent was attached to ceiling using the port dorade for ventilation - that now faces aft only for air flow, and the electric fan is attached to the main battery. Holding tank locker is now for tools.
Chainplate Replacements
The Lowers, Uppers & Backstay are now replaced after 53 years! None had ever been inspected. Found one "slightly cracked and another with a bolt sheared. Replacements for the lowers are the same as the old but without the simple welded bracket. The uppers use a larger plate design (my own) that uses a "Spartan" deck fitting with 4 bronze bolts - the old deck slot was filled. Will do the same to the lowers in time. The backstay uses a larger bracket bolted to the stern bracing structure and keeps the old chainplate glassed in place - but cut off under the deck. It uses the "Spartan" deck fitting. No more deck penetration for leaks. ALL chainplates are now inspectable and more readily removable - except for the stem head which I'll not touch.
Spreader Lights - LED Replacement
Update on the left but now replaced with one light - centerline on the mast Main Hatch Door Panel -
New one panel made of Starboard for the winter, etc. Wood ones (3 pcs) for offshore. New Electrical Panel
Old vs New New Prop
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